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Relais & Châteaux hotels for food and wine lovers
Exploring a few Relais & Châteaux stays that captured what this collection is truly about: character, comfort, authenticity, and a deep sense of place
I found out about Relais & Châteaux by accident. In the fall of 2020, I was planning a trip to Yosemite, hoping to see the forest in all its autumn colors. Everything inside the park was already booked, so I chose a small hotel in Oakhurst, about twenty minutes away.
At that moment, I had no idea it belonged to the Relais & Châteaux collection, and that stay would become the beginning of my love for boutique hotels.
Before I share my experiences from different stays, it’s worth explaining what makes this hotel group so special and why I became such a fan of it.
Relais & Châteaux isn’t just a hotel group, it’s a collection of independently owned places united by the same philosophy: authenticity, character, and a deep sense of place. Each property reflects its local culture through design, food, and the people who run it.
You don’t find a standard look or formula here, instead, you feel a story behind every detail. That’s probably why these stays feel so personal.
To join the network, every property must undergo a strict selection process that evaluates service quality, fine dining, connection to local traditions, and individuality. Today, Relais & Châteaux includes around 580 hotels and restaurants in 65 countries.
Most hotels are situated in distinctive locations, such as vineyards, coastal towns, national parks, or historic villages, rather than in large cities. Most also feature on-site restaurants, and quite a few hold Michelin stars, making the experience memorable not only for the stay but also for the food.
That’s what I love about this collection: every place feels genuine and thoughtfully curated. Over the past few years, I’ve stayed in several Relais & Châteaux properties, each one unique, but all sharing the same warmth and quiet elegance.
Chateau du Sureau
A stylish chateau in Oakhurst (20 min drive to Yosemite)
As I pointed bout before, it was my first stay at a Relais & Chateaux. The hotel sits on a small hill, and you drive through beautiful gates to enter, and it feels special before you even check in.
Château du Sureau was opened in 1993 by Erna Kubin-Clanin, who dreamed of creating a truly European ambiance. She traveled around the world collecting antiques, tapestries, and art, bringing a sense of genuine authenticity to the property.
The property is very charming, featuring a pool and spa, surrounded by lush gardens and trees.
Each of the rooms (except for suites and villas) is named after flowers and herbs, such as lavender, mint, rosehip, rosemary, etc.
I stayed in the Sweet Geranium Room on the first floor. It is spacious, with a fireplace and balcony (pool and garden view). Upon arrival, a bottle of red wine and a freshly baked cake were waiting for me as a gift - such a lovely detail.
If you stay on the second floor, some rooms offer a beautiful view of the mountains, adding even more charm to the overall experience.
Another thing I liked a lot was breakfast! You'll head to the inner courtyard, where you can enjoy a hot drink, such as tea or coffee, and savor a main dish accompanied by a selection of pastries, surrounded by nature. It was an incredible feeling.
The Elderberry House Restaurant
The Elderberry House is the property's signature restaurant, boasting the same calm and elegant atmosphere as the hotel itself. There's a very cozy courtyard with outdoor tables, and in the evening it feels especially charming.
Chef Ethan DeGraff leads the kitchen. His approach is thoughtful and ingredient-driven, featuring dishes that are neither overly complicated nor overly simple.
For dinner, the restaurant offers a prix fixe menu with three or five courses, and both options can be paired with wine. It's a relaxed, intimate experience rather than a formal one and fits perfectly with the atmosphere of Château du Sureau.
Hotel Wailea
Adult only hotel on Maui
It was the second Relais & Châteaux property I visited. Unlike Château du Sureau, Hotel Wailea has 72 suites and a much larger territory.
The first time I saw photos of this place, it appeared to be a little paradise of villas nestled in the jungle. And when I booked it, I somehow missed the note ADULTS ONLY, which turned out to be the biggest bonus. This property became the second place in Hawaii on Maui (another place is Sensei Lanai, on Lanai island), where the hotel area is completely quiet, as there are no children at all.
The suites are situated in small, two-story buildings surrounded by lush tropical greenery. The whole property feels like a garden: palm trees, flowers, pathways, and that soft Maui breeze everywhere you go.
There’s a pool, a small waterfall with a stream, a fitness center, a yoga studio, and the famous bright-blue golf cart that takes you to the beach if you need a ride. The hotel isn’t on the beachfront, so there’s no direct beach access, but honestly, the peaceful setting makes up for it.
The suites are spacious, featuring comfortable lounge areas on the patio or balcony, ideal for taking in the silence and scenery. And overall, I absolutely loved the island-style design of this place: relaxed, airy, and very Maui.
A bit of history: Hotel Wailea originally opened in the 1980s as a private Japanese club. Later, it was transformed into a boutique retreat, and in 2015, it joined the Relais & Châteaux collection, becoming the only property in the network on the Hawaiian Islands.
The Restaurant
The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea has one of the most beautiful dining settings on Maui. From the terrace, you get a wide, open view of the ocean.
You can enjoy breakfast here from 7:30 to 10:30 am, and it’s a very calm way to start the morning, with options such as eggs, Hawaiian Benedict, avocado toast, or pancakes. In the evenings, from 5 to 8:30 pm, the restaurant offers a three-course dinner menu experience.
The kitchen is led by Executive Chef Ryan Cruz, whose cooking showcases local Maui ingredients in a clean and thoughtful manner.
L’Auberge Carmel
A small hotel in the city with 2 Michelin-stars Restaurant
L’Auberge Carmel is the second incredible place I visited in California. I’ve always loved Carmel, and coming here is pure joy.
Since I wanted to celebrate an anniversary with my hubby, I was looking for something quiet, intimate, and preferably with a great restaurant. That’s how I found this hotel.
It’s a small property with only 20 rooms. There’s no gym or pool, and the hotel is about a five-minute walk from the main street and just a few blocks from Carmel Beach.
The rooms are very cozy, and every evening you’ll find a little treat from the restaurant waiting in your room: a cake, cookies, or something else freshly made. Breakfast is included in the stay and is served either in the courtyard or delivered to your room.
The service deserves a separate mention. One day, it rained heavily, and my husband and I came back completely soaked. The staff immediately invited us to warm up by the fireplace, brought us tea, and took our jeans to dry. They returned them about thirty minutes later, such a thoughtful gesture.
And if you’re passing through Carmel on the 1st Pacific Highway, this is a perfect place to stay for a night, and enjoy a peaceful evening, great food, and the atmosphere of this beautiful town.
Aubergine Restaurant
Aubergine is the restaurant at L’Auberge Carmel, and it quickly became one of the most memorable dining experiences I’ve had. The space is intimate and elegant, with a quiet atmosphere that allows you to focus on the food and the moment.
Executive Chef Justin Cogley, who has been with Aubergine for many years, has helped shape its identity. The menu changes frequently, and each dish feels thoughtful, balanced, and connected to the place.
Dinner here is a tasting menu experience, with multiple courses and the option to add a wine pairing. And at the very end, they give you a small chocolate as a gift. It may seem like a tiny detail, but it was honestly one of the best chocolates I’ve ever tasted.
When I visited it in 2023, the restaurant had one Michelin star, and in 2024, it received its second, which honestly didn’t surprise me at all.
website | instagram | Reservation via Exploretock
Planters Inn
Historical hotel in the center of Charleston city
Planters Inn was my choice for Charleston, South Carolina, and it’s actually the only Relais & Châteaux hotel in the state. The location is perfect: right on Market Street, in the heart of the French Quarter, one of the most charming and historic parts of the city.
Market Street leads directly to the Charleston City Market. This historic, long-standing, open-air market has been operating since the 1800s, including local crafts, small vendors, and traditional products.
The hotel itself is a four-story historic building with 64 rooms and suites. There’s no pool or gym on-site (guests can use a nearby health club), but the property features a beautiful courtyard and garden that also connects to the restaurant.
Since the building dates back to 1844, the elevator is small and can fit only one person with a suitcase, so the stairs quickly become the easier option)
My room was a King on the third floor, incredibly cozy, with a soft bed and a teddy bear on the pillows. You can actually buy it as a souvenir. I took mine home, and it now sits on my sofa.
Each day in the lounge area, you can enjoy a tea, coffee, or something a bit more interesting. Breakfast isn’t included in the stay, but everything else about the experience felt warm and comfortable.
If you’re passing through Charleston, even just for a night, this is a great place to stay, close to the heart of the city, full of character, and perfect for enjoying both the food and the atmosphere of the French Quarter.
Peninsula Grill
Peninsula Grill, the restaurant nestled in the courtyard of Planters Inn. The entrance feels almost hidden, as you walk through the garden with soft lighting and palm trees, or through the corridor inside the hotel. The restaurant is elegant, classic, and romantic.
The cuisine is refined but comforting, with a focus on Southern flavors, so expect a delicious food. Here I tried one of the best dishes of my entire trip - a mushroom risotto with duck. It was so flavorful and perfectly cooked that I still think about it.
Peninsula Grill is also renowned for its famous 12-layer coconut cake, which has become one of the city's signature desserts in Charleston.
Even if you're not staying at the hotel, the restaurant is worth visiting. But if you are staying at Planters Inn, the convenience of walking straight into the courtyard for dinner, or ending the night with dessert under the lights.
Villa Florentine
Renaissance hotel in Lyon on the hill
Last year, I stayed at Villa Florentine in Lyon, a former 17th-century convent transformed into a boutique hotel with just 28 rooms and suites. The property sits on a hill above Vieux Lyon, offering one of the best panoramic views of the city’s rooftops and river
The atmosphere is calm and historic, with Renaissance details, vaulted ceilings, and bright terraces that catch the morning light. The hotel consists of two buildings connected by an underground corridor, and the whole property feels very private. There’s also a pool, spa, gym, and a beautiful garden tucked between the buildings.
I stayed in the Médicis Suite, a spacious room with a full panoramic view over Lyon. Breakfast was included and could be enjoyed either in the elegant dining room or outside on the terrace by the pool, which was such a peaceful way to start the day.
Les Terrasses de Lyon
Les Terrasses de Lyon is the Michelin-starred restaurant at Villa Florentine, and it has held its star since 2010. The restaurant is located in the part of the building where the reception is, and from the dining room you get a beautiful view of the park below and the city stretching out in the distance.
Chef David Delsart works with regional ingredients, blending them with modern French techniques and clean, elegant presentation. The menu includes several tasting options as well as à la carte dishes. I chose the six-course tasting menu because I wanted to try everything, and I wasn’t disappointed. The dishes were beautifully plated, with interesting flavor combinations that felt thoughtful and balanced.
If you’re in Lyon, I highly recommend visiting this restaurant. It’s a wonderful way to experience the city through its food and views.
No matter which country you’re in, staying at a Relais & Châteaux property always feels reassuring. You know the service will be thoughtful, the atmosphere genuine, and the experience will leave you with warm, memorable impressions long after you leave.
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