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- Lyon, the gastronomic heart of France: my personal food & travel story
Lyon, the gastronomic heart of France: my personal food & travel story
A food lover’s guide to Lyon
Lyon is magnificent! At first, I thought the city felt like a mix of Paris and Italy. It has a lovely vibe: colorful and bright on a sunny day & calm, romantic, and even a bit gothic when it rains.
Before my trip, I took some time to learn why this city holds such a special place in French culture. And I found something fascinating: many of Lyon's most beloved local dishes date back to the 16th century.
It's believed that chefs from Florence combined their cooking expertise with the region's fresh produce, and that's how Lyon earned its long-standing title as France's capital of gastronomy.
So, Lyon. I got there from Paris by a high-speed double-decker train. The ride took about two hours, and time flew by. The train arrives at a station around 15 minutes drive from the Vieux Lyon.
For my first visit, I chose to stay in the old town because I am always passionate about places with history. And Lyon's old town? It immediately felt right. With its narrow streets, Renaissance buildings, and quiet corners, it has a special charm. There's something mysterious about this city.
💡 If you choose the part of the city between the Rhône and Saône rivers, you can get there from station in 8 minutes, especially if you take a local taxi with separate lanes from buses.
Villa Florentine
Renaissance charm, hilltop views, and peaceful luxury in Lyon
After arriving in Lyon, I wanted to stay somewhere that would match the mood of the old town, something elegant, quiet, and full of character.
The choice was easy since I'm a fan of the Relais & Châteaux chain. That's how I ended up at Villa Florentine, a former 17th-century convent turned boutique hotel with only 29 rooms and suites. It's perched on a hill overlooking the rooftops of Vieux Lyon, and the views? Just wow.
The hotel exudes an atmospheric and peaceful ambiance, featuring grand Renaissance touches, vaulted ceilings, and sunlit terraces. The room in the photo is the Medicis Suite, a spacious and luxurious space that exudes the charm of Lyon'sLyon's Renaissance era.
Breakfast was included in the stay and could be enjoyed in the elegant dining room or outside on a large terrace by the pool, facing the historic old town. Starting the day with a croissant, and that view is pure magic.
There's also a small sculpture garden near the hotel, perfect for a morning walk or a spontaneous photo session.
Les Terrasses de Lyon
A Michelin-starred dining with panoramic views over Lyon
Inside the Villa Florentine hotel, is Les Terrasses de Lyon, a Michelin-starred restaurant that has held its star since 2010, and you can feel the level of precision and creativity in every course.
The restaurant boasts a stunning panoramic view of Lyon, especially at sunset. The interior is refined and intimate, with warm lighting, elegant table settings, and soft tones. The atmosphere is calm and almost romantic, and the staff are genuinely warm and attentive, explaining each dish with just the right amount of detail.
The restaurant chef is David Delsart, who combines regional ingredients with modern French techniques and presentation. Every plate looks like a painting but tastes like comfort.
The menu offers several tasting options, as well as a la carte dishes. I went with the six-course tasting menu because, well… I wanted to try everything. And I wasn't disappointed: beautifully plated dishes and full of thoughtful flavor combinations.
The highlight for me? The desserts. It featured a chocolate tart, which is my addiction number one:)
Reservation via theFork, which is very popular across Europe.
Or, if you're staying at the hotel (lucky you), the reception staff will happily take care of it for you.
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Culina Hortus
Vegetarian cuisine in a modern setting
The next fantastic spot in Lyon is Culina Hortus, a beautiful vegetarian restaurant with excellent service and a calm, modern vibe.
It doesn't have a Michelin star (I truly believe it's just a matter of time), but it's already listed in the MICHELIN Guide and was even named Best Vegetarian Restaurant in the World by We're Smart in 2020. Not bad, right?
The space is warm and inviting, with a mix of wood, stone, soft lighting, and gentle earthy colors. It is modern but with a natural touch. It feels cozy, like a little urban sanctuary.
The kitchen chef - Adrien Zedda, who opened the place when he was still in his twenties. His approach is creative, seasonal, and focused on local produce.
The menu changes weekly for lunch, and monthly for dinner, so there's always something new to discover. You can also choose wine pairings, which match the spirit of the food perfectly.
I went there for brunch (€45 for six courses), and every dish was both beautiful and delicious. And before you ask, yes, I was full! Not just "somewhere full" but actually satisfied and happy.
Reservation via website
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Miss Madeleine Patisserie
One cookie, endless flavors
One thing that truly surprised me in Lyon was the number of tea cafés and specialty shops, something I seriously miss in Los Angeles. Since I don't drink coffee at all, it felt so refreshing to be in a city where I could walk around, enjoy the streets, and grab a cup of hot or cold tea with something sweet on the side.
Miss Madeleine Pâtisserie is a whole boutique dedicated to one thing: madeleines. I had no idea you could create so many variations of one little cookie!
The founder and owner of the shop is Antoine Dubois, a young pastry chef who trained at École Ducasse. He opened the store at 25 with the idea of reinventing the classic madeleine using high-quality, local ingredients, such as Bresse butter and Valrhona chocolate, and without any preservatives.
My soul wanted to try all madeleines, but I started (very responsibly) with three: pistachio, chocolate, and caramel. We shared cookies with my husband later, but I'm not going to lie; I could easily eat them all myself.
It has 2 locations in Lyon.
They don't sell drinks, but right nearby is the beautiful Human & Tea Boutique, a true paradise for tea lovers.
Human & Tea
A stylish tea boutique in the heart of Lyon
The boutique is small but incredibly stylish, with light wood, clean design, and a calming, almost zen-like atmosphere. You immediately feel welcome here, where everything is beautifully organized, from the hand-labeled tea jars to the minimalist teapots and tasting samples on display.
Their tea collection focuses on high-quality single-origin leaves, many of which are organic, and their kind staff take the time to help you find something that fits your taste or mood. It's not just a shop; it feels more like a tea gallery, where you can slow down, take in the aroma, ask questions, and explore.
After getting a few suggestions and enjoying the beautiful aromas, I found my favorite: a white tea with peach that completely stole my heart.
It has 2 locations in Lyon and one in Paris.
Open: |
La Mere Brazier
Romantic fine dining with 2 Michelin stars
There are plenty of charming restaurants in Lyon where you can celebrate an anniversary or enjoy a special evening in a romantic setting, and La Mère Brazier is one of them.
What's so interesting about it? How about the fact that this restaurant is notable for being founded by a woman, Eugénie Brazier? In 1933, she became the first woman ever awarded three Michelin stars, and not just for one restaurant, but for two at the same time. She held these three stars from 1933 until 1968. It's incredible!
Since 2008, the restaurant has been in the hands of Chef Mathieu Viannay, and as of 2024, La Mère Brazier holds two Michelin stars.
The space itself is elegant yet cozy, with a touch of Art Deco glamour — featuring velvet textures, soft lighting, and thoughtful design details that make you feel like you're in a place that is both historic and intimate. It's refined but not cold, making it perfect for a slow, celebratory dinner.
The menu includes tasting options with five or seven courses. With the addition of wine pairings or non-alcoholic soft pairings, which I appreciate. You can also go à la carte if you're in the mood to build your own dinner story.
A few exciting dishes from the menu: pâté foie gras, a delicate emulsion with black caviar, white fish, and a mouth-blooming soufflé that I still think about: soft, warm, and just perfect. I'd go back just for that.
Reservation via website
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M Restaurant
A French bistro with Michelin roots and relaxed charm
Another Gem in Lyon is a chic and modern bistro with creative, elevated cuisine, where Chef Mathieu Viannay received his first Michelin star in 2005. Then, in 2008, after taking over the legendary La Mère Brazier, he transformed his original restaurant on Avenue Foch into something more relaxed, and that's how M restaurant was born.
Today, the kitchen chef is Julien Gautier, who brings his vision and style to the menu.
The interior is stylish and cozy, featuring muted tones, soft chairs, and a glass-enclosed wine cellar in the corner. It feels fresh and unfussy, the kind of place where you instantly relax and focus on the food (and the conversation).
The place is listed in the Michelin Guide and holds a Bib Gourmand distinction, which means it offers delicious food at a great value, and honestly, I couldn't agree more.
The dinner menu is €51, which includes a starter, main course, and dessert. There are always several choices: fish, meat, vegetarian, and the menu changes frequently. So, no promises you'll get exactly what I had…
But to give you an idea, I started with a tomato carpaccio, followed by duck, and finished with a chocolate mousse cake. And yes, everything was delicious.
Reservation via website
Open: |
A few more sweet moments in Lyon
Before leaving Lyon, I had a few last delicious stops that are worth mentioning.
Pavlovas Joel Maier
It's a dreamy little spot entirely dedicated to pavlovas. Yes, only Pavlovas! If you haven't heard of it, pavlova is a light and airy meringue-based dessert with a crisp shell and a soft, marshmallow-like center, typically topped with whipped cream and fresh fruit.
Here, they take it to the next level with a variety of sizes, flavors, and textures. It's elegant, delicate, and not too sweet. Just lovely.
Instagram | website
Glacier Terre Adélice
One of the most popular places for ice cream in Lyon. Their selection is huge, with both classic and unexpected flavors. I went for a scoop of cassis and one of dark chocolate, and let's say... it was the best possible way to say goodbye to the city.
Instagram | website
Boulangerie Chez Jules
I stopped by Chez Jules while exploring the old town in Lyon, and I couldn't resist the smell of fresh pastries pulling me in from the street. This bakery isn't just charming; they've been baking since 1998, using local flours and traditional methods.
Lyon is a city of flavors, layers, and quiet magic. From historical places to modern plant-based spots and unforgettable desserts. It's a city where food is part of the culture, not just a meal. I left thankful, inspired, and already planning my return.
Until next time, Lyon. ✨
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